The Wonders of Northern Wales

With the golf season set to start in a big time way, you might be wondering what nearby destinations are worth one’s time and money. Too often the self-promotion hype machine dominates the landscape and while these facilities are quite good, the accompanying costs to play are quite steep. In my many travels throughout the United Kingdom and Ireland I have found a few locations that can satisfy the golf appetite and keep more than a few quid in one’s pocket.

Northern Wales is not likely to be on the radar screen for many, but this relatively remote area yields a range of quality golf courses. For those who live in or around Manchester, Liverpool or Birmingham the trek to Northern Wales is rather easy via the motorways.

Courses in order of Preference ...

ROYAL ST. DAVID’S GOLF CLUB (1894)

18-holes, Designed by  Harold Finch-Hatton, William Henry-Moore,

with modifications by Fred Hawktree.

6,629 Yards, Par-69

73.0 Course Rating & 126 Slope

royalstdavids.co.uk

In Harlech you come upon the country’s second best course behind Royal Portcawl - Royal St. David’s. 

Views of the castle come from just about any position on the course. The key when playing Royal St. David’s is to score early in the round. The outer half of holes is considerably less challenging than the inner side - especially once you reach the long par-3 14th and the ferocious five you encounter.

The long par-4 15th is easily among the best 18-holes I have played in the country. Standing on the tee can be an intimidating scene, as the fairway is ensconced with high grasses that obscure the ideal landing zone. Simply “pulling the trigger” with confidence at the tee can be a mental tug-of-war. Hard to beat Royal St. David’s as the sun pulls lower and lower to the horizon and the colours of the surrounding grasses and hillsides illuminate Harlech Castle resting magnificently above the course.

CAERNARVONSHIRE GOLF CLUB / Conwy (1890)

Laid out by Royal Liverpool members, 1875;

extended to 18-holes in 1895 by Jack Morris

6,936 Yards, Par-72

74 Course Rating, 132 Slope

conwygolfclub.com

No visit to Northern Wales is complete without a round of golf at Caemarvonshire Golf Club - known simply as Conwy. Opened in 1890, with 18-holes in play by 1895, Conwy is positioned at the mouth of the River Conwy in the shadow of Conwy Mountain, overlooking the Conwy Estuary with Llandudno’s Great One beyond and the Isle of Anglesey.

The par-72 layout plays to just under 7,000 yards and provides a solid opening hole - just under 400 yards and long enough to stretch the muscles, but OB protects the right side and a duo of well-placed fairway bunkers invites the slightest doubt to grow when preparing to tee off. The green sits behind spectacle bunkers that offset from the putting surface, which runs away from the player.

Conwy comes with a clever routing, with the par-4 7th at 451 yards a glorious test of golf. The River Conwy parallels the hole on the left with deep rough on that same side. The tendency is to avoid the calamity on that side and push shots further to the right. Don’t make that mistake! The putting surface - set in a bowl - is difficult to reach successfully unless your tee ball flirts with the more demanding left side.

The quality of the holes stays strong throughout, with the final quartet smartly placed in gorse-lined fairways. Pity the hapless player who becomes unglued at the end. Conwy is one of the most underrated of all the courses that I have played in not only in Wales, but throughout the UK.

ABERDOVEY GOLF CLUB (1893)

18-holes, Designed by Herbert Fowler, Harry Colt and James Braid

6,710 Yards / Par-71 

72.7 Course Rating, 122 Slope

aberdoveygolfclub.co.uk

Located immediately alongside the Irish Sea and sandwiched between the Dovey Estuary and the Cambrian Mountain Range, within the Snowdonia National Park, Aberdovey Golf Club is a classic out and back design. Founded in 1892, the club was home for one of the greatest writers in the history of golf: Bernard Darwin. The legendary chronicler never felt more at home than being at Aberdovey. The adjoining train tracks can easily take you up the coast for easier and quicker access and is the perfect alternative to driving.

High dunes protect the course from the sea and the fairway turf is cut tight and close – the perfect opposite of the blowing fescue rough grasses awaiting the slightest misfire. 

Aberdovey is not overly demanding, provided the wind cooperates.

The real qualities of Aberdovey commence in earnest with the inner half of holes. The riveting par-3 12th hole is listed at just under 150 yards, but the green is elevated substantially above the tee and when the wind is whipping can cause a host of swing issues. Sadly, a few of the holes on the back nine used to have tee boxes set high in the ocean side dunes, affording spectacular views of the beach area. Environmental issues forced those tees to be placed within the main perimeter of the course and while the holes themselves are good, the loss of such a favoured starting point is noticeable.

The closing hole at Aberdovey commands respect - the long par-4 finishes with a putting surface hugging an adjoining out-of-bounds area next to the clubhouse. When the pin is cut tight to the left the slightest pull will mean a quick reload from your last position. Be forewarned in being too aggressive with your play.

The ride north to Aberdovey from Harlech takes about 90 minutes - best bet is to break up the travel and enjoy the offerings in Barmouth - the perfect midway point. 

NEFYN DISTRICT & GOLF CLUB (1912)

26-holes, Original 18 holes from 1912 - course revised and eight holes

added for New Course by James Braid and J.H. Taylor, 1933.

nefyn-golf-club.com

When the fickle weather cooperates - few places, if anywhere in the UK, are more naturally beautiful as land and sea intersect in a breathtaking presentation than Nefyn District & Golf Club. 

You begin with a rousing start - a plunging downhill long par-4. A series of holes along the coastline follow before making your way back closer to land. Nefyn provides golfers the option on playing the Old course from holes 1-10 and then either proceeding with the New Course which provides the final 8 holes or you can opt for a continuationof the Old Course. 

While it may sound confusing the routing does work. By no means should any player miss playing the final 8 holes of the Old Course. Here you encounter the equivalent of a wild roller coaster ride stretched out over a peninsula of land jutting out into the Irish Sea. Unfortunately, some of the holes need a bit of an updating, but the core remains intact and the scenery is an eyeful indeed – most notably the par-4 13th. The potential is certainly there for an even grander golf experience.

If time allows when playing on The Old Course you can take a quick detour via a pathway from the 15th hole to the Ty Coch Inn. Just a great spot for a wee nip to help finish the round in grand style. 

BULL BAY GOLF CLUB (1913)

18-holes, Designed by Herbert Fowler

6,276 Yards, Par-70

72 Course Rating, 121 Slope

bullbaygc.co.uk

My travels took me even further to the far northwest corner of Wales - crossing from the mainland via the Menai Bridge to the Isle of Anglesey. My destination - Bull Bay Golf Club.

Designed by Herbert Fowler - the man who crafted such UK gems as Walton Heath, Saunton and, in the States with Eastward Ho! - Cape Cod’s most iconic layout - Bull Bay opened in 1913. Few people realise that Fowler transformed Pebble Beach’s 18th hole from a lackluster par-4 into the 

all-world par-5 hole it is today.



Bull Bay is positioned on rolling terrain and provides a legitimate heathland presentation - a hybrid of links and heath land intersecting together.

Among the more striking of holes is the superb short par-4 9th. The hole lures the player into making the bold play by providing a lower and upper landing area - the upper provides the easier most direct approach but requires a surgeon strike - marrying power and accuracy in one blow. The most striking dimension of Bull Bay is the artful routing - Fowler takes you in a myriad of directions - the wind shifting as you play and the challenges at times both vexing and engaging.

NORTH WALES GOLF CLUB

18-holes, Designed by Tancred Cumins, with

advice from Harold Hilton

6,254 Yards, Par-71

70.6 Course Rating, 126 Slope

northwalesgolfclub.com

Located on the other side of the estuary from Conwy, North Wales is less intense than its nearby neighbour and it provides a fairly straightforward links course with some interesting holes from time to time. The outward nine is the more challenging and the terrain is fairly interesting with mounding that will impact strategic choices on a few of the tees. Wonderful location and would benefit immensely from a bit of a makeover. 

PWLLHELI GOLF CLUB (1900)

18-holes, Original nine holes by Old Tom Morris, extended to

18-holes by James Braid, 1909.

6,108 Yards, Par-69

69.7 Course Rating, 122 Slope

clubgolfpwllheli.com


One of the more enjoyable drives in Northern Wales is the journey from Harlech to the Llyn Peninsula,the southern portion of the peninsula, just out into Cardigan Bay which serves as the larger inlet of the Irish Sea. It is here you find Pwllheli Golf Club.

Started as a 9-hole course in 1900, Pwllheli was the handiwork of legendary Tom Morris. Nine additional holes were added by James Braid - five-time Open Champion - in 1909. The two nines are quite different: the front more parkland and the inner half more in line with links golf. Not especially memorable - although the links holes do add a bit of fun, but if you need to keep the golf muscles limbered it is worth a stop.

Rating ***
Good 

Going to Northern Wales shows the spirit of the game is alive and well - and the fees for play are well within nearly everyone’s budget and the likelihood in gaining tee times is not equivalent in winning the lottery even during most peak times. The quality of the golf, however, is good - not great. The issue is what it could become with a bit more attention to detail. Nefyn is a great example. A superb location but a course that needs to be sensibly updated to be even better. Will that happen? Hard to say with any certainty. The same holds true for Bull Bay - a fine Herb Fowler course that could be even more of a draw with a finely crafted renovation.

Courses such as Aberdovey and Conwy are fine courses. Both are genuine links courses and the range of holes is clearly present. The issue is about not changing such courses but having a qualified architect bringi back to life so many of the original features. There is a fine line between something rustic and something that is simply rust. Northern Wales is one of the few getaway spots throughout the UK that can really deliver on a number of fronts for quality lodging options, food choices and various attractions of note.

In today’s competitive golf travel market the need to keep oneself up to speed is never ending. The potential for Northern Wales to be a rival of other locations throughout the UK and Ireland is something collectively the courses in the area can certainly attain. Whether that does happen is clearly a question in search of an answer.

What to do Beyond the Golf ...

Harlech and Criccieth Castles - No visit to Wales is complete without an authentic visit to an historic castle. Harlech was completed in 1290 and Criccieth in 1280. They are great vehicles to understand the long and storied history of Wales. The views are also stellar of the surrounding countryside and water areas. Provides a real appreciation of what life was like in those early days. harlech.com.

Portmeirion Village – is a recreated Italian village in the town of Gwynedd. The architecture is striking and the level of detail is quite impressive. Walking the streets whisks you away from the modern world. Plenty of things to do for all ages, and well worth the visit. portmeirionvillage.com.

Town of Conwy – A delightful medieval walled town and Designated a World Heritage Site with its magnificent castle, whose presence dominates the town. An absolute must to stroll and visit the countless shops and stores throughout the area. conwy-wales.com.

Town of Barmouth – An incredible beehive of outdoor activities for this coastal community. Traffic - both pedestrian and vehicular - is nonstop during the summer season, so time your visit smartly as congestion can be a bit overwhelming at times. Ideally located halfway between Aberdovey and Harlech. barmouth.org.uk.



Snowdonia National Park - Mount Snowdon is the highest peak in Wales topping out at 3,560 feet - the second tallest in the UK. Access to top is possible by train and car, with a range of activities for young and old alike. Best bet is spend an overnight so there is sufficient time to really absorb what Mother Nature has seen fit to provide here. visitsnowdonia.info

Where to stay ...

Wales possesses a fine array of lodging options. One solid resource is called Welsh Rarebits. 

Bodysgallen Hall & Spa - located just minutes from the centre of Conwy - provides a wide range of personal comforts from a range of restaurants to spa services. Lodging options abound from the cottages to the main hall bedrooms. bodysgallen.com



On the way to Aberdovey from Manchester check out Afon Rhaiadr – translates to “the house by the river and waterfall.” Hosts Jan and Martin provide an ideal setting, warm and inviting with grounds  of Downton Abbey splendour. The B&B is on the doorstep, with easy access to the coastal communities and mountain hikes / vistas. afonrhaiadr.co.uk.



In Harlech the Castle Cottage – castlecottageharlech.co.uk – provides an intimate setting in tandem with a gourmet dinner experience courtesy of hosts Glyn and Jacqueline. Just steps away from Harlech Castle. Be mindful of the steep slope from the main road to where the lodging is located. Heading to Pwllheli, Nefyn and Bull Bay – be sure to stop in Caernarfon – the location where Prince Charles received his investiture in 1969. A bit setback from the main road and providing the ultimate in both comfort and style is Plas Dinas House – one of the finest B&B’s in all of Wales – plasdinas.co.uk. The grounds are quite large and you are free of all the clutter and frantic activity that takes place just off the property.

After one’s round at Conwy, check out The Castle Hotel – located in the heart of the city and providing first rate service. Be mindful of the tiny entrance way that leads to the rear car park area. Within easy walking distance of all the key shops, stores and restaurants. – castlewales.co.uk.